
Unscrew the cap. Really. Hear me out on this people. Corks stink. Sometimes literally. It's call
cork taint it's caused by a fungus and it makes around 10% of all wine that use a natural cork smell like wet dog. As you can imagine it doesn't do much for the taste either. If only they would invent some sort of closure that wouldn't ruin so much wine. Yeah, well, they did...it's called a screw cap (okay, for wine it's technically called a
stelvin closure). The objections come fast an furious, but they usually boil down to two basic ones---aging and aesthetics.
The theory of wine aging is that over the years a little oxygen seep around the cork and slowly oxidizes the wine changing and (if the wine maker knows what they are doing) improving the wine. And if no air can get past a screw cap the wine won't age properly. But really, the theory is actually more of an hypothesis because frankly, no one really knows. We're not even really sure how much, if any, oxygen can get around the cork over the years. After all, for generations now Champagne has been aged while being closed with bottle caps and people still think it's pretty good. And anyway when is the last time you personally aged wine? How a wine will age over the next 10-15 years is nothing but a purely academic exercise for everyone except an exceedingly small number of wine nerds. Personally, when I buy a bottle of wine the only reason it makes home un-opened is that Maryland has strict "open container" laws.
That leaves the aesthetic argument. Oh wait,...before we get to the aesthetics of the whole let just address some of the inchoate free floating hate out their for the screw cap. It all began way back in the twentieth century, most American wine was cheap garbage and I mean garbage, the kind of stuff I would not wash my feet with much less drink (and honestly I'm willing to drink most anything, remember--I'm a connoisseur not a snob). This cheap garbage was always, always closed with a screw cap. Hence everybody who was alive in the 1970's now associate the screw cap with garbage. But times have changed cheap...excuse me, I mean inexpensive american wine has improved tremendously and anyway those wines are always closed with a cork because it's really important that no one associate them with wine from the '70s. Right now, only interesting wine comes in a screw cap now.
But what about the ritual? The history? the tradition? Okay, fine. You got me. I'm as much a traditionalist as anyone. And I suppose the last time I was at a restaurant and had a bone in ribeye (just) medium rare with an awsome bottle of 2007 Caymus Cabernet (I wasn't paying), I would have been a tad disappointed if the sommelier hadn't gone through the whole rigmarole. But really how often does that happen? Wine is a daily drink (at least for me) ritual is not really all that important and why risk buying a bottle of bad wine? (end rant)
Update: I realize I used an excessive amount of italics and parenthesis in this post (but that's just how I
roll).